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Decoy & Drake

Decoys & spreads

Duck & Goose Decoys, and the Spreads That Use Them

Floaters, full-bodies, silhouettes, motion and the bags that carry them, sorted by the spread you actually run.

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Higdon Outdoors Standard Mallards, Foam-Filled (6-Pack)
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How to Build a Duck Decoy Spread

How to lay out a duck decoy spread: named patterns, landing-hole placement, rigging for depth and current, and where motion fits.

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What to buy first

Start with a core dozen or two matched to the water you actually hunt, not the biggest pack you can find. A general mallard pack with mixed postures covers the most ground for a puddle-duck hunter, while a Canada goose hunter is better off with a small, mixed-posture full-body set than a single large pack of one posture. Add a bag before you add a second dozen; a slotted or backpack-style bag keeps decoys from tangling and makes the walk in tolerable. See best duck decoys, best goose decoys and best decoy bags to start.

How the category divides

Decoys split along a few lines that actually matter when you're buying. Species comes first: duck decoys (mallard, diver, teal) and goose decoys (full-body, shell, silhouette, snow goose) aren't interchangeable, and a spread built for the wrong species reads as obviously fake to working birds. Snow geese are the extreme case: a spring conservation-order spread runs on windsocks and shells by the hundred, which is why best snow goose decoys is its own page. Water type comes next: a floating decoy needs a keel and rigging that a field goose decoy never touches, and a silhouette that stands fine on dry ground has no place on open water. Static versus motion is a separate axis on top of both; see best motion decoys once your static spread is set, and best jerk rigs for the hand-pulled version that needs no battery and stays legal on most water where powered decoys are restricted. Finally, season phase changes both species mix and spread size, which our duck decoy spread guide and goose decoy spread guide both walk through, from early teal-sized spreads to the larger, warier-bird spreads of late season.

What actually decides the choice

Once you've settled on species and water type, four published details separate the packs worth buying: realism features (paint, flocking, posture variety), durability and construction (foam-filled versus hollow shell, one-piece bodies versus separate heads), packability and per-decoy weight, and what the maker actually backs the decoy with in writing. We publish the full weighted rubric behind every score on how we score, built entirely from manufacturer spec sheets and warranty pages. Warranty terms vary more than most buyers expect: only a handful of makers we cover publish a full year, several state 30 days, and some publish no decoy warranty term at all. See Avian-X vs Dakota decoys for exactly how that plays out between two brands that otherwise look similar on the shelf.

Decoy count matters less than most buyers assume, too. One prairie-pothole guide interviewed by Ducks Unlimited gets by with about two dozen decoys and puts more effort into positioning and concealment than into adding numbers. Realistic posture variety and correct placement usually beat a bigger pile of identical decoys.

The mistake buyers make

The most common mistake is buying one big, general-purpose dozen and expecting it to work everywhere: on a tight pothole, on open bay water, and in a dry field, all with the same six mallards and six geese. Species, water type and season phase each change what a spread needs, and a single generic pack rarely fits more than one of those situations well. The second-most-common mistake is buying decoys before deciding how many the situation actually calls for; see how many duck decoys you need and how many goose decoys you need before adding a second or third dozen you may not need.

Goose spreads, and what each decoy costs you

Goose decoys are the one category where the arithmetic decides the spread. Geese commit to numbers, and numbers are priced per decoy, so the honest question is not which decoy is best but how many good ones you can put on the ground. Best cheap goose decoys ranks the silhouette and shell packs that get a spread to two dozen fastest, and best full-body goose decoys ranks the full-body packs that still make sense per decoy, with the two premium six-packs that do not named rather than quietly dropped.

Beyond the core spread

Three things tend to come after the first dozen or two, and all three are covered here. If your water is a bay, a reservoir or a big river and the birds are bluebills, redheads and ringnecks rather than mallards, you are buying a different species and a different quantity — see best diver decoys, where the spread is measured in dozens and keel design matters more than paint. If you field-hunt geese, the outer two-thirds of a large spread is almost always silhouettes rather than more full bodies, ranked on published thickness, pose count and stake design at best goose silhouette decoys. And if you are choosing between the two biggest brand names on the shelf, the spec sheets split cleanly — see Avian-X vs GHG decoys.

The two jobs nobody warns you about are rigging and storage, and between them they account for most of the work and most of the wear a spread ever sees. Line length, anchor weight, Texas rigs and long lines are in how to rig duck decoys; the heat, stacking and lead problems that quietly ruin paint over a summer are in how to store duck decoys.

Five pages added this month narrow the shelf further. On value, best duck decoys for the money ranks floaters on foam fill, published weight and whether replacement heads exist; at the other end, most realistic duck decoys ranks flocking and posture count, which is what a handful of landing-hole decoys is actually for. Best teal decoys covers the September season, where body size beats detail. And two brand comparisons finish the matrix: Higdon vs GHG decoys on published weights against included hardware, and MOJO vs Lucky Duck on batteries, runtime and remotes for motion.

Two more pages close the gaps on the goose side. Every goose decoy here used to be a field decoy, and none of them float — best floating goose decoys now ranks the water packs on published body size, per-decoy weight, head and keel design, with the much smaller counts a river or pond spread actually needs. And for white birds, where spreads run into the hundreds, snow goose socks vs full-body decoys works through the arithmetic: a hundred bodies per sock purchase against twelve per full-body pack.

Comparisons

Head to head

Guides

Know before you buy

FAQ

Questions hunters ask

What's the difference between a duck decoy and a goose decoy?
Duck decoys are sized and posed for species like mallards, teal and divers, usually rigged to float. Goose decoys are built for Canada, snow or specklebelly geese, in full-body, shell or flat silhouette forms, most often set in a field rather than on water.
Do I need motion decoys to start?
No. A well-placed static spread comes first; motion is an addition once the basics are covered, and powered motion decoys carry their own regulation check. See best motion decoys.
How many decoys should I start with?
Fewer than most new hunters assume. See how many duck decoys you need and how many goose decoys you need for sourced ranges by water type and situation.
Are silhouette decoys as good as full-body decoys?
They do different jobs. Silhouettes pack flat and stack cheap for bulking up numbers, but show far less from the side than a full body does. See silhouette vs full-body goose decoys.

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Tell us the water, the birds and the part of the season. Reader questions decide what we research next. Email contact@decoyanddrake.com or use the contact form.